Through the Woods

One of my favourite books, that I find myself returning to from time to time, is H. E. Bates’s Through the Woods. Years ago, I used to spend a lot of time with my great friends Jane & Johnny Holland at the house they had in North Wales. In those days we were rather eccentric. Our idea of a good time aged 24 was to get pretty drunk then lie on the sofa in that wonderful house (without electricity, central heating, or running water) and read extracts from Through the Woods, sometimes for hours, by flickering candlelight. 

Reflecting on this weekend, when Bridie came to stay in Dorset, I was reminded of those days. There have been a few coincidences today. “What do you want to do, Bride?” I said, collecting Bridie from the station yesterday, running a bit late. “What I REALLY want to do is visit a bluebell wood. I’ve never been”.

So, this morning, we called for coffee with my friends Gracie and Adrian, who run the fantastic Little Toller Books, which I’ve written about before – we sell some of their books in the shop, including the brilliant new re-issue of Barbara Jones’s The Unsophisticated Arts, which is by my bedside table at the moment.  Gracie gave us a tour of beautiful, remote, lost Toller Fratrum, the tiny hidden hamlet where they run Little Toller Books. If you visit, be sure to make your way past the decaying Manor to the tiny chapel, with its extraordinary carved font (memorably photographed by John Piper)…

So, it just so happens that on the Little Toller list is a fine reissue of  the H. E. Bates; I’m not sure we have it in the shop yet, but you can buy a copy here, direct from them. And I note that the cover is a drawing by Nicholas Hely Hutchinson of a transcendent bluebell wood.

Well, we said goodbye and drove back to the Bride Valley – stopping briefly in nearby Wynford Eagle, where you find this remarkable view down to the Manor Farm. Dreamy West Dorset:

And after lunch, we decided to head back to London via Cranborne Chase, where I’d heard of the beautiful bluebell woods at Garston. But nothing quite prepared us for what we found.

The smell of wild garlic was tangible; the colour of the bluebells and their scent remarkable. I wasn’t sure I’d ever seen anything like it.  As we headed east, through to Bowerchalk, we drove through the extraordinary Beech avenue which opened this blog. There is nothing, nothing, like the saturated green of beech leaves that have just broken in May. Our eyes, which have got used to months of the heavy placid greens of late summer and the browns and yellows of autumn and then damp wintry greys are  literally startled, jolted, by the acid shock of this colour.  This combination of May Beech woods on gently folding chalk hills is one that sends a shiver down my spine.  Travelling today through the woods of Dorset and Wiltshire has been about as close to an idea of heaven as I’ve known for a while. 


19 comments on this post

  1. SmallBlackDog says:

    I went down to the village shop at lunchtime to get something to eat – the smell of freshly cut wild garlic by the roadside just spurred me on!

  2. “A blue hallucination” (pimpmybricks) says it all. Hard to believe it’s real, but so glad you shared this wonderful vision.

  3. Ben says:

    Dear Margaret yes wild garlic, almost more amazing than the bluebell bit!

  4. Margaret Powling says:

    A bluebell wood is the quintessential English scene, is it not? Whoever first wrote “blue and green should never be seen” was colour blind. The combination is calming and inspiring at the same time. We are lucky to have a bluebell wood about a mile or two away from us … hope to get there soon …
    I presume all the white flowers are wild garlic?

  5. beautiful life says:

    How intoxicating are your images. Wild garlic leaves also very delicious to eat, steamed or raw in a salad, a brief season, but so perfect. We so enjoy cycling or walking through along the Jubilee Path from Rockcliffe to Kippford on the Solway Firth, to enjoy the delicious scent of the garlic and then the bluebells. How perfect. Thanks so much for posting. s

  6. Steven Zick says:

    For anyone who hasn’t yet gotten their fill of bluebells, i can highly recommend the opening scenes of Merchant Ivory’s “Howards End,” where Vanessa Redgrave stalks through the bluebells surrounding her half-timbered cottage, her Edwardian gown trailing behind her. Once seen, no lover of bluebells (or of this blog) will ever forget it, I wager…

  7. tayloe says:

    Beautiful!

  8. Ash says:

    Do the woods and avenue make you want to go back to painting?

  9. Elizabeth Barr says:

    OK, you win. The English countryside is the most beautiful in the world.

  10. Effie says:

    Sometimes,it’s hard to believe that there is sooooo much beauty in this world! Such tranquility! Thank you!

  11. ayse says:

    awe inspiring!

  12. Rosemary says:

    I was wandering through a bluebell wood last Friday evening – this year they seem to be better than ever – their blue haze and sweet perfume are hypnotic.

  13. elaine says:

    There is nothing quite like a bluebell wood – wonderful – it just takes your breath away.

  14. Mike says:

    Sublime, a tonic for the soul. Many thanks!

  15. jo says:

    astonishingly beautiful.
    i dream of having a bluebell wood, but like the commenter above – in australia – the bulbs can’t hack it.

    that top picture. amazing.

  16. This is heaven, made real. I can’t believe you were able to see this with your own eyes. I can’t tell you how much I adored these photos. Thank you!

  17. Janey Pugh says:

    What a dreamy post. So much to enjoy and your images of the woods and flowers are superb!

  18. pimpmybricks says:

    Twenty one years ago, almost to the week, I took a walk through the bluebell woods in Osterley House gardens. It was the afternoon before the night when my daughter was born and it was a moment of such transcendent peace, coming as it did before another astonishing experience. That walk was a blue hallucination. Everything melted into that blue and calmed. One of my defining moments. I’ve planted a whole heap of bluebells here, but bulbs just can’t hack it in Australia. Thanks, as they say, for the memory. PP

  19. liz wilhide says:

    Was at Kew yesterday seeing just these tremulous acid greens and luminous blues. Am enjoying your blog so much.

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Look out, ornamental tulip beds. Be scared, lemon yellow wallflowers…

One of the more remarked upon contents of The Queen’s Speech, during the State Opening of Parliament this week, was not so much what Her Madge said… as who was sitting on her right hand side. 

Yes, for the first time in 17 years, HRH attended the State Opening alongside his mama, and alongside him was the Duchess, looking really rather splendid. You may have heard the news that the Queen is planning to do a little less this year. While this will doubtless be a disappointment it does rather make sense. We certainly don’t do abdications Dutch style but it’s rather nice, and quite right, as your parents get older, to be able to help share the load, is it not?

Anyway, I was reflecting on all this as I was cycling down the Mall the other day.  You will of course be familiar with the stony grey hulk of Buckingham Palace at its western end, simultaneously one of the most famous and most ugly of the London landmarks; and you will of course know that Prince Charles lives at Clarence House, the Queen Mother’s old house, just next door, which is rather more beautiful being designed by Nash (like the back of Buckingham Palace, before it got refaced by Blore and then in that heavy Edwardian dress by Aston Webb a year before the First World War).

But I wonder if you’ve spotted a quiet revolution that’s been going on in the Mall for a few years now? Yes, it’s the least revolutionary address in Britain, I suppose – but this is real.

I can’t quite remember when it was that I first noticed the wonderful wildflower meadows that now stretch all along the tall brick walls of Clarence House and Marlborough House Gardens.  Certainly three years ago, maybe a couple more. It was a sight of quiet beauty back then, and year after year it’s just been getting better and better.

Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve got a thing about Cow Parsley… let’s face it – probably the most beautiful flower on earth (May 2011, May 2010, and lots of other posts around about the same time of year)… So it is with particular fascination that I’ve been watching what I am sure were once neatly mown regimental lawns… turn in to this:

Incredible, no?

The camassias are perfect touch, a counterpoint to the paler blue…

But the black and purple tulips are even more spectacular

Queen of the Night tulips are like jewels against the light. The trick, I think, is to plant the bulbs very deep if you want to naturalise them in grass. Of course Prince Charles is rather a master at creating tulip meadows, as we know, with the famous wildflower meadows at Highgrove, so none of this should be any surprise to anyone at all.  

 

If you’ve been drinking in the quiet beauty of the Clarence House planting, it’s all the more of a shock to turn the corner in to the flowerbeds surrounding the giant Victoria Memorial, that fronts Buckingham Palace. 

See what I mean?!

Now we all know that I’ve got nothing against tulips. I love them. And I’ve got nothing against wallflowers. I adore them as much if not more. Let’s face it, I even love tasteless flower colours – my ever-too-slightly-salmon-orange tulips at the Parsonage being a fairly good case in point. I don’t want to be the pot calling the kettle black.

But I am afraid try as I might I do have something against that planting combo. I’d actually be quite interested to see the scarlet tulips and the forget-me-nots growing out of the dark red wallflowers; and the yellow tulips out of the lemon wallflowers, perhaps with a bit of darker yellow wrapped in there… but HELLO!?!?!?! This is bonkers.

But I somehow suspect The Queen finds it very very cheery to look down upon such a display. I bet she peers out of the tall windows of Buckingham Palace just before David Cameron is coming for tea and feels, well, a little less gloomy. Better, after all, to be looking at some riotous tulips than riotous subjects. 

Well, my hunch tells me – than in time to come these beds will subtly change. Or even radically. Yes… if I was those vivid tulips and wallflowers I’d be feeling a trifle nervous seeing Prince Charles sitting at the right hand of The Queen at the State Opening of Parliament. And taking a little more role in the life of the nation…

I’d be even more nervous if I was this bit of desolate lawn to the South of Buckingham Palace and Victoria Memorial. Can it be so very long before this is a glorious, beautiful, soft, mixed meadow grassland? I think that I’m rather looking forward to the future. 


29 comments on this post

  1. Joelle says:

    We call them ketchup and mustard planting, such a crime against perfectly lovely plants! The wildflower meadows are astonishingly beautiful. Would love to see more photos of them and how they change over the year.

  2. Ben says:

    Hello! Nick – literally, a couple of inches deeper than you would normally plant them. Not sure where I heard that advice or whether it really works any better than if you plant them normally… but worth a try! Good luck with the meadow.

  3. Ben says:

    M, I like your way of thinking!!!! I secretly love them too ;-) thank you for reminding me that I do.

  4. Ben, what flowers are blooming in the meadow other than the tulips, cow parsley and camassius? It takes my breath away.
    Your garden also is exquisite.

  5. Nicola says:

    Problem with tulips for your ordinary gardener is…they never look as good in subsequent years as in their first, even if you bury them deeply, feed the leaves etc. Pots are the way to go. Agree with your Devon respondent Margaret P. re Queen of the Night. I also live in Devon and love our gardens.

  6. Beautiful! Please bring us more photos of the Clarence House Meadows in the different seasons.

  7. m says:

    errhem I think I may be in a minority here. I love meadows but also LOVE those bold mad park plantings. I especially love seeing them in the Embankment gardens…. sorry

  8. Vivien says:

    Ben you’ve captured an intoxicatingly beautiful drift of wildflowers which allows the passive observer’s eye to glide over the entire scenery contemplating its various elements, within and beyond, absorbing the harmonious hues, the light and shade, and the textures quietly unifying the man made and the natural, drawing the eye to the depths beyond the drifts. A truly satisfying scenery with the element of delight in the dark tulip highlights culminating in a melodious composition which gladdens one’s heart and leaves you yearning for more…….

  9. Nick Heywood says:

    Dear Ben,

    When you say you think the secret is to bury the tulips deep if you plan to naturalize in a lawn, do you mean that literally, in terms of inches deeper than usually, or just that they should be placed in close proximity to surrounding plants, and thus “buried” in other foliage? If the former, I’ve never heard this advice and I’m intrigued.

    I apologize for the dense question, but I really must know! My partner and I are working on a gradual remeadowing of our lawn in Rhode Island (USA), and this epitomizes the style we’re going for.

    As always, you give us lovely things to look at.
    –Nick

  10. Ben says:

    Charlie I agree. Thank you for the edit…! Ben

  11. Margaret Powling says:

    I call it “Smartie” gardening, after the children’s sweets, those vile carpet beds of garish colours that don’t even clash stylishly! Queen of the Night tulips look best in terracotta pots, I think. Cow parsley is wonderful but sadly it doesn’t smell nice! Love wild flower meadows – I recall first seeing one of these, artfully constructed, at The Garden House, Buckland Monochorum, here in Devon.

  12. Kevin Kornegay says:

    It would be lovely to see wildflower meadows on the Mall in Washington, D.C. The last time I was there, the lawns were in a sorry state due to drought and insufficient maintenance funds. I would have thought that wildflower meadows would be much less labour intensive and use rather less water.

  13. Charlie says:

    Love the tulips! Look fat enough to eat.

  14. Charlie says:

    Good post but I would have preferred the word ‘subjects’ rather than ‘citizens’ in this sentence: Better, after all, to be looking at some riotous tulips than riotous citizens. Not only is it more accurate, it sounds better too.

  15. Norwegian student says:

    Wow, stunning pictures! I really like the contrast in the flowerbeds, where the red flowers just shine through! Amazing!

  16. Cornelia harriet says:

    I always think of dark chanel nail varnish and queen of the night tulips. I planted some carnival tulips last year they are creamy with pink stripes grown with beautiful chickweed. I like the idea of bulbs as they were planted in Winter, and all we have to is wait for them . All the work has already been done. I always admired Prince Charles and his holistic view of the world. I wonder if he has a herb garden, my mother and I always enjoyed the culpeppers herb shop down a little lane in Guildford, now since gone but I think Culpeppers is taken over by Napiers. Mmm lovely summer tomatoes and english chives salad.. sprinkle of salt…

  17. Ben says:

    Dear Liza well I’m hoping that’s true in my case too ;-) now that I am 41 x

  18. Adam W says:

    Dear Ben, regardign CostCo, think less masses, and more common Denominator …. Bargain Basement Bin ……. :(

  19. Liza Vandermeer says:

    Even as a Colonial (my respective ancestors came to Canada on several boats back in the 1830s) I am very much looking forward to what Prince Charles decides to do in the future. Yes, the Duchess looks pretty damn good, as does Chuck himself. Isn’t it nice that nature can be so kind to some people (not stunning when young), in that they look so much better as they age.

  20. Ben says:

    Adam that is hilarious, I’ve never even heard of Costco – very happy to be bringing English dec to the masses ;-)

  21. Adam W says:

    Sod the Tulips, the great topic of debate is the your book is at Costco, I spied it there this weekend…. Never mind the Queen, standards at Ben P HQ appear to be slipping….. pull your socks up….

  22. pimpmybricks says:

    I love your theory and I hope you’re right (I suspect you are). I was watching Prince Chas the other day on television and noted how, finally, he has grown into his face. Grown into it very well too. I find myself liking him quite well these days – surely it can’t be purely an age thing?

    I did wonder, though, what you might mean by “just before David Cameron is coming for tea and feels,” but then I read on. Jetlag, probs.

  23. Madeline says:

    Stunning flower displays. I love reading your postings. They make me smile. This is the first picture I’ve seen of Madge where she looks as fragile as winter’s delicate paper whites. I wanted her to live forever.

  24. Like mother, like son? Definitely not! Those wildflower meadows are breathtaking.

  25. S Louise says:

    This has cheered me up no end (the wildflower bit I mean). How stunningly beautiful it is. Probably saves a load of money too. I agree about cow parsley it is stunning, but I have to say I am rather promiscuous when it comes to flower favourites – can never commit to / choose one!

  26. Sharon says:

    I am growing ammi major, the ‘posh’ cow parsley, no sign of the seeds even sprouting yet. Interested to see what grows later in the summer there, will have a look in August !

  27. Nicola says:

    Nauseating combo!! As if someone got the wrong end of the planting stick. Or, for badness’ sake! Cow parsley in London? Why not? Indoors it sheds tastefully too.

  28. elaine says:

    WOW – love the combination of the of wildflowers with the hit of the dark purple tulip – if only we could see more of this type of planting – just wondering what it looks like when the flowers have gone over. As for the combination of the red and gold – well your comments just about covered what I feel about that.

  29. Graeme says:

    I’m so glad you posted this, I loved passing these wee meadows on my way to the London Library the other day – I think it’s the slowest I have ever walked along the Mall, absolutely stunning.

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Normal Service Resuming

We are pleased to announce that normal service has resumed. No more politics, no more sadness. It was a beautiful early Summer weekend in Dorset and the blog contains nothing more than images of the garden, of houses and landscape. Which is really what we all like. I had my old boss and friend Charles Morris and his wife staying, and their friend Charlie, and Will.

We went for a walk to Abbotsbury and the coast. The grass seemed particularly vivid after months of turning shades of brown; there’s something about that moment when the trees finally break that is magical; and clouds quickly scudding over the folding hills. 

I love the walk to Abbotsbury, and the moment where the land suddenly falls down to the coast and to Chesil Beach. 

Like so many Estate villages, Abbotsbury is picture perfect. Nothing jars. But what I was liking most of all was the little gardens and allotments tucked about the place, ready for Summer.

We returned via Waddon House, to show Charles and Rachel the perfect proportions of the Portland stone facade.  Waddon is a fragment of a much larger house of which the central section and left wing burned shortly after it was built… I have written about it before. It is my dream house.

Back to the Parsonage in time to catch late afternoon sunshine in the garden.

On Sunday, we went to Chettle House, up towards Cranborne Chase; a beautiful, romantic, English Baroque house  in a gently decaying village where not a lot has changed since the 19th century. The house, by Thomas Archer, is strange, restless; I love its curious detailing and tall sash windows with ancient glass. The curved corners used to be at the ground floor only, and it would be so good to see the upper floors removed… a different house altogether.  To be honest, it is collapsing a bit now. How do we define that moment  when romantic decay gets too much? I think that Chettle may have just slipped over that edge. “It’s looking a little Chettled” is a phrase that might make its way into my language.

From Chettle, we made our way through villages and via the Museum at Farnham (The Museum is an excellent pub, in case you were wondering) to Rushmore Park, where a very long time ago I’d been at school. The soft expansive beauty of Cranborne Chase always takes my breath away.

 

Monday was bright and brilliant. I spent all day in the garden.

I put up my bean poles, and planted beans and peas, sweetcorn and lettuces, courgettes and squash.

The tulips are putting on a crazy display at last. But I suspect will soon be over.

And the auriculas are just turning, as irises and aquilegia come through. It feels like it’s been the shortest spring ever, rather like being in New York, where winter suddenly turns to summer with just a week of spring in between.

But it was, basically, a perfect weekend. Normal service has resumed.


12 comments on this post

  1. Ben says:

    Dear Tom, hmmm, I can probably recommend you some architects…! All best, Ben

  2. Tom says:

    Disappointing tirade about such a small issue. If some private fan of a political party gives a visual example what they had in mind for a project, why make a stink about it? It comes across to be very small and petty-minded. After all, did you invent the original classic British period homes that your designs are based on or do you borrow designs and features from existing homes, like most architects do.

    If you wanted your name attached to the pictures, you could probably have asked them to add it. If you did not want to be associated with the clip, well, if your name was not included you were not associated.

    See my point?

    It’s a pity to see this because I came onto your blog with the prospect of hiring you, but now lost my inspiration. In fact, if the UKIP group had considered your work as a format they probably had your name on their to-hire list. I can only assume you lost a client.

  3. Sometimes we all need a dose of reality. I was glad in particular to read your Syria post and appreciate your willingness to write about the tough things that are happening around us everyday.

  4. jane says:

    normal or abnormal as long as services continue.

  5. Pippin says:

    The tulips are looking wonderful again this year. How many do you plant? I put in 350 this year, although I think only just over half have come up. The flooding at the end of last year isn’t their ideal growing conditions! Do you replace your tulips every year, or do you find that some will come up again? In previous gardens that I have moved into there have been a few yellow tulips that have reappeared year after year, so I am trying yellow ones to see if it will work for me.

  6. Anna says:

    I think your parsonage (with garden) is my dream house! Glad to see that Spring has arrived for you.

  7. elaine says:

    The Parsonage is certainly in a beautiful part of the country sounds like you had a good weekend. I am surprised that you have planted beans and courgetttes out so early – aren’t you worried about late frosts. The spring garden is looking good

  8. Margaret Powling says:

    Love Chettle from these photos … didn’t know of it, the only house we have visited in Dorset is Kingston Lacy (a favourite of mine, and love the story behind it … for this get yourself a copy of Anne Sebba’s The Exiled Collector.) Love your landscape photos, too, Dorset being a particularly beautiful county (and I say that living in Devon, which isn’t without some delightful landscapes of its own!)

  9. Mary Andrews says:

    I loved your use of the word “restless” to describe Chettle House. Lyrical prose coupled with exquisite photography make your blog exceptional.

    I agree, “normal” or “abnormal” Ben Pentreath posts are always worth reading.

  10. Ayse says:

    Ahh,it all looks wonderfull!

  11. ceri says:

    Lovely — but we do enjoy your abnormal service too!

  12. jo says:

    beautiful ben. i envy your little plot. it is gorgeous.
    jo

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